Among the various traditional headdresses of Cossack women, the “zanuzdalka” or “kutalka” occupies a special place. This peculiar scarf, worn by Cossack women during fieldwork and in dusty conditions, holds significant interest. Functional on one hand and unique (even exotic to the foreign eye) on the other, this headdress was an integral part of everyday life for Cossack women on the Don and Terek Rivers.
N.F. Yakovlev, in his ethnographic essay on the attire of Upper Don Cossacks, wrote the following about the zanuzdalka:
“…over the shawl draped on the head, a narrow scarf was tied under the chin, covering the ears from the sides. The ends of the scarf were tied at the top of the head. The ‘zanuzdalka’ was always of a different color compared to the shawl – red on white, or vice versa. The ends of the shawl were wrapped around the neck, covering the lower part of the face and mouth, and tied in a knot in front.” Such an intricate headdress was worn by Don Cossack women in cold weather, protecting them from the harsh steppe winds. “The ears are warm” – this is how this strange way of wearing scarves was justified.
This type of headdress was equally widespread in the Terek region, but under a different name – “kutalka,” derived from the verb “to wrap.”
“To protect the skin of the face and hands from sunburn, they would wrap their faces with scarves, both in the field and gardens, as well as at home, leaving only their piercing eyes visible.”
The zanuzdalka or kutalka is not related to Eastern or Islamic traditions. This headdress served a purely utilitarian role in the life of a Cossack woman – it protected her face from relentless winds, scorching heat, and dust. The zanuzdalka was worn during haymaking, threshing, in vineyards, and fields. It was not part of the festive attire of Cossack women, neither on the Don nor on the Terek.